What is DryLining? All what you need to know about Dry-Lining in 2021.

What is dry lining?

"Dry-lining a wall simply means attaching plasterboard to a wall, or other surface, which gives you a smooth finish to decorate straight away. It's relatively easier, cheaper and safer to get a good result this way rather than with wet plaster and dry lining is an easier alternative to re-plastering."

Dry Lining - Drywalling - Manchester and North West

Dry lining (sometimes referred to as drywalling) is a system for cladding the internal faces of buildings, such as walls and ceilings. Plasterboard is attached to the internal faces, creating a smooth surface that finishes such as paint can be applied to directly, a 'wet' plaster finish is not required. Dry lining requires less technical expertise than traditional plastering and required little water, hence the term ‘dry’ lining.

Which type of Plasterboard is used?

Plasterboard is available in a wide range of lengths, widths and thicknesses. The larger the plasterboard, the fewer joints, but the harder it is to handle and fit. Plasterboards has a core of plaster which provides good acoustic and fire insulation. Fibres can be added for extra strength and durability. Moisture resistant plasterboards are treated with wax and can be useful when dry lining bathrooms for example.

Plasterboard can be fixed direct to the internal face of a wall or ceiling or can be fixed to a secondary framework of metal or timber attached to the internal face. Each material requires a different fixing technique:

• Dabs of adhesive can be used to attach plasterboard directly to the internal face, which sets swiftly.

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• Plasterboard can be attached to metal or timber walls using nails, this is known as tacking.

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• If screws are used for the fixing, this is called screwing. Typically screws support plasterboard better than nails.

efore starting the dry lining installation process, always be very careful when choosing the right plasterboard, bearing in mind that these are available in different thicknesses, sizes and lengths. The plasterboard you opt for must correspond to the stud centers. On the other hand, always consider the place it is going to be fitted, since more humid areas or those more susceptible to water penetration and moisture will involve using moisture resistant plasterboards, which will probably be the best option for your bathroom or kitchen. Also know that dry lining (or creating!) a curved wall for example may involve using thinner plasterboards or if applicable regulation fire rating requires a plasterboard of certain width, try using two thinner plasterboards, rather than only one meeting the requirements.

If you are fixing dry lining to timber or metal frames, this can be done by either tacking, which involves using nails or by screwing which involves using screw fixings, which are, to our humble opinion a better option, since they offer a more stabile support for the plasterboard. Know that dry lining can also be applied to timber ceilings, just like it is fitted onto timber stud walls, of course recognizing some differences inherent to these surfaces, usually involving the fact that plasterboards tend to be massive and heavy, so, since the dry lining process will include lifting up the board to the ceiling, better opt for smaller, lighter boards. Also proper placement of a few fixings will hold the plasterboard in place and ease your work, enabling you to rest your arms when installing.

After choosing the right plasterboard and performing the needed measurements and cuttings, it’s time to get on with the work and fit the plasterboard onto your timber wall. We advise that you start from the edges in, since starting from the middle of the wall may cause additional problems and unnecessary cuts, if the plasterboard is not plumb. The plasterboard can be fixed to the wall by tacking the nails (preferably 40mm nails) or using screws to tighten the board to the wall (preferably 25mm long). First fixings should be tacked from the centre outwards and not too much apart (there are usually evenly spaced fixing marks on the face of the board), since these will hold the board and allow you to carry on with your work – place them too far apart and you will constantly have to hold the board. The rest of the boards should be fixed 200 mm (when using screws) or 150 mm (when using nails) around the stud. When placing the fixing, make sure not to go too far, since this might damage the paper envelope.

Jointing & Drylining

Once the plasterboard is in place, a jointing tape can be applied over the joints between the boards and then the tape and recessed screw or nail heads can be filled over with a jointing compound. The joining compound for dry lining is usually supplied as a dry powder which requires water to achieve the correct consistency. The compound should then be allowed to dry and then may need to be sanded with a fine abrasive paper. The surface should then be sealed or primed, and once dry, can be decorated.

Is Drylining Faster than Wet Plaster?

Dry lining is generally faster and easier to install than wet plaster, and generally results in an overall construction that weighs less. Dry-lined walls are easier to change, making buildings more flexible. Dry lining can also be used to increase thermal insulation and to prevent condensation. Additional insulation may be installed behind the plasterboard, and a vapour barrier might also be installed.

However, care must be taken to ensure that barriers and insulation are correctly positioned, continuous, and that they do not simply conceal a problem without remedying it. The technique known as ‘dot and dab’ has been particularly criticised for leaving air pockets behind the plasterboard which can impair the performance of the wall. See Dot and dab for more information.

Dry lining can have less load-carrying capability that traditionally finished walls, which may be a problem for fixing wall-hung cupboards or shelves. It can also be easier to damage.